The next day was dedicated to exploring the ruins at Pompei. I had seen it as a child, Vivienne also, but it was a new experience for both Roland and Nancy. It was huge and impressive, of course, and relatively few visitors. We didn't see every significant building but we walked until our feet gave out - several hours. At breakfast the next day we learned that one of the buildings at the site had collapsed in the early morning hours. I swear we had nothing to do with it, despite the fact that I seem to have taken photos of the building just hours before...
Next on the agenda: a drive along the Amalfi coast, which I would classify as an once-in-a-lifetime experience - because it only needs to be done once. Even with the somewhat shortened route we took, it was hours of tortuous driving for Roland. Towards the end we had an expensive but good lunch in Amalfi itself. The place was brimming with shops and restaurants for tourists, but also seemed to be full of everyday local activity as well. And it was extraordinary setting.
Roland tipped a local elder in the main parking area by the harbor for advice on a good place to eat, and was a bit chagrined to see this same fellow bussing tables at the designated restaurant when we ate there an hour or so later. This was chalked up to the customary guile of the Neapolitans.
Next day we're on the train into Napoli to see Herculanium. There are some marginal neighborhoods to walk through, but the site itself is impressive, with more of a sense of being a "dig," below grade, than in Pompei. The famous tangle of bodies we remembered from Nat'l Geo, however, had been removed and stored away. On the promised of seeing more artifacts we boarded another train to see the archeological museum in the heart of Napoli/Naples.
The subway stop left us off blocks from the place, walking through largely-deserted streets on a Sunday afternoon. Litter and garbage are everywhere, Italians seem to have been largely supplanted by Russians and Sri Lankans, and the grand Neoclassical buildings around us seem to be shedding plaster and stone as we watch. When we arrive at our destination we find that half of the exhibits in the museum are closed, including most of the ones that would have interested us. There is no food or drink available for blocks around. By general acclamation we decide to call it a day and plan on a nice dinner out back in Pompei. We have long since lost track of how many times Roland has referred to this entire metropolitan area as a sh-t-hole (a judgement, which, in fairness, he has asserted from the beginning).
We get on almost the right train to Pompei, and are 2 stops down the line towards Sorrento before we think to get off. Unfortunately we find ourselves on a bare landing, not a station, in a marginal outlying area 5 km from our hotel (thanks iPhone Maps). We contemplate hoofing it, but just as darkness is falling a kind stranger joins us and informs us that we are better off waiting a few more minutes for the train going in the opposite direction.
Photos:
Pompei: Roland, Vivienne, Nancy walking towards the Forum area:
Pompei: I am fairly sure the tall building to the left is the one that would collapse several hours later - I bet this woman would like a copy of this! Compare to:
http://napoli.repubblica.it/cronaca/2010/11/06/foto/pompei_crolla_la_domus_dei_gladiatori-8816475/3/
Vivienne and Roland, a rest stop on the coast drive;
Jim in Amalfi; Amalfi near sundown: Naples above, Herculanium below; Roland retreating through the streets of Naples (B&W, street photography style)
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